I'm changing the timing belt but due to the tight area I cannot get the engine mount bracket out. The bolts are 3" long and the only resolution I can see is to remove the engine or drill a hole through the wheel well structure by each bolt. Does anyone have a trick I'm missing.

I have a ticking noise when I accelerate. Idle is fine. I've changed plugs, filters, oil, etc. Anyone have an idea what may be going on?

Hi this is Trevor again, I just replaced all the shift solenoids in my transmission and the pwm solenoid I also replaced the speed sensor and it still doesnt want to shift out of first gear. Could vacuum have anything to do with it? if anyone could help me that would be greatly appreciated thanks.

does anyone have any ideas?...I took my honda odysy van to Sears a couple of months ago for oil change. An hour after i left it suddenly started having a problm. I could start it but if i wasnt constantly giving it gas it died. we drove it back to sears, they said they didn't have anything to do with it. strangely enough by the time we got back to them it stopped doing it. Now we are on our one and only vacation 6 hours away and it started it again. Help. Can anyone help? Thank you so much in advance

Hi i am new to autogeek but i was wondering if anyone new exactly where the transmission shift selenoid is on a 4T60-E transmission (i believe that is what my car has) it is a 1996 pontiac grand prix with the 3.1 V6. my problem is it doesn't want to shift out of 1st gear no matter what i do, it will go into reverse too but every other gear i try doesnt feel any different than 1st gear as far as torque and speed. The guy at autozone told me it was a selenoid or the modulator, i already bought the selenoid but im having a hard time finding where it goes :/ from pictures it looks to me like i have to take the side cover off is this true? that means i would probly have to drop the tranny in order to do this im guessing. any help would be appreciated thanks :)

ok here goes its been going on for about 6 months ill be driveing or just ideling and all of a sudden the motor will want to die if im driveing and it does it theres no power at all i can floor it and it will go maybe 4 miles hrs now heres the strange part if i hit the steering wheel in the top left it will fix whatever is causeing the messup some times i can tap the wheel and it fixs it sometimes i have to hit it really hard and thats the only place that fixes it i can hit the column nothing and sometimes it will fix its self when im driveing now i replaced the igition switch atached to the column checked for broken wires and still it does it im going nuts trying to figure it out the oils good no gas leaking or smell dont see any sparks anywere ive had the truck for 2-3 years now and didnt have no problems till 6 months ago the truck runs great besides that its all stock with the v6

I recently received a ford taurus station wagon as a gift but now I am having a problem with the transaxle light coming on when I go past 40mph. I was told it might just be a sensor because another motor was just installed in it. Could this be true or does anyone have any idea what it might be?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
1996 Chevy S10 P/U, 4WD, 4.3L SFI. All stock. Throwing P0300, Random misfires code. Checked/replaced the following:
Distrib Cap & rotor
Plugs & wires
TPS was checked and appears to be acting correctly. Voltage checks and increases with throttle changes.
EGR was replaced with new one.
Fuel filter changed.
Vac lines have been mostly replaced over the past year and all that I can check have been replaced.
Injector cleaner was run through tank of gas.
MAP sensor was in BAD shape, now replaced.
Interesting behavior: Engine idles fine, but when under moderate acceleration, engine would run rough, stumble and act like a cylinder mis-fire, under hard acceleration there was no stumble or miss. When MAP sensor was being checked, I noticed that while the MAP sensor was unplugged the roughness under moderate acceleration disappeared. Truck appears to run fine without MAP sensor plugged in. When MAP sensor is plugged in, the rough running comes back. I am at my wits end with this, so any help will be greatly appreciated!
I have cleared the code both with and without the MAP sensor connected and it still throws P0300.

I am looking for installation instructions for belly bars on a 1992 ford f150 xlt

I have a Chevy 350 Small block.It is rebuilt and everything is good it isn't locked up or anything,But when I try to crank it up it wont even try to turn over all I get is a slicking type thing like the starter engine is the only thing running.I am not sure what it is doing I took the starter off and tested it it seems to be working but I am unsure what should I do?

I have a 98 chevy pick up with a 350 motor that when its damp or rainy will start, but die right away. I have replaced the dist. cap, rotor cap, fuel pump, the cam positon sensor and had the ignition control mod. checked. Still have the same problem.

I have a 1986 Monte Carlo ss it has a 305 in it but i dont think its the one that came in it i have this number off the block by the firewall driversside 14088551 and this number off the heads 14014416 and the head also had F116 on it i have a holley carb4160 600cfm and a TorkerII in take Iwas going to put a cam inbut not sure if i should or just go with a 350

brand new EGR, new gaskets, new spark plugs, new oil filter, no carbon build up; but upon turning it over and a pump of the gas, smoke just shoots out from underneathe the spacer, under the EGR. Possible solutions..

we have replaced the egr-valve, installed a screen type gasket in the egr-valve to catch carbon chunks, performed a complete tune-up, replaced plugs and plug wires, installed a complete injector assembly and replaced the 02 sensor. After all of this time and expense the vehicle still idles horribly and blows thick black smoke when accelerating. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

I just bout a 2000 Volvo S40 a week ago. I noticed sometimes it gave me trouble removing the key, but now I cannot get the key out at all. Does anyone haev any suggestions as I am having to leave the car w/key in ignition whenever I go somewhere. i am afraid someone is going to steal the car. Will WD-40 loosen up the grip? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I drive a 2006 acura TL and would like to know the best tire for this car. Im considering the yokohama AVID W4S or yokohama H4s. Any suggestions??

I have a 99 Honda Accord EX (everything stock). The problem is it's stumbling on heavy load. Once it gets to 3000 rpm, it runs fine though. It also runs fine at all rpm at idle and cruise. Seems to be a lean misfire, though I haven't checked the coil yet.

It's been throwing the dreaded "random misfire code” as well as misfire codes on every cylinder. My scan tool also allows me to record engine sensor data, so I've been puzzling over the numbers trying to detect the problem. Unfortunately (from a diagnostic point of view anyway), everything seems to be reading fine.

Other clues:
• Runs just as badly cold or hot
• O2 sensor never returns self-test (but seems to be reading fine between 0.2 and 0.9 v)
• Fuel consumption has not dropped. If anything, it has improved, but that may just be because of the way I've been driving it.
• I've dumped engine cleaner into the tank on two separate fill ups. No change.
• I've filled up with 89 and 93. No change.
• Opening up the throttle will force the car to downshift
• Engine never overheats. It might be running a little cold, though. Thought it could be the ECT sensor, but then it should be running rich, not lean.
• Long-term fuel trim is almost always at zero. Short-term trim oscillates between +/- 1% at idle and cruise; goes up to + 15-20% when I'd expect it to, but never stays high for very long; drops to - 10-15%, but never stays low for too long.
• Disabling the EGR valve makes it run exactly the same way. But, it seems to be working when I trigger it manually at idle.
• I haven't checked any of the fuel delivery components because I'm a little afraid of blowing myself up.

So, what do you think? I've "narrowed” it down to weak fuel pump, faulty fuel pressure regulator, weak ignition coil, bad MAP sensor, bad TPS, or bad ECM (if timing is the issue).

Sorry ....LOL

Hi, Im trying to help my biyfriend firgure out a 1190 Jeep he just bought and has been working on for ....oh the last 72 hours. It is running at high voltage like 16-18 and he cannot figure it out. He changed alternator & battery...Can anyone help?

Please Help! I have a blazer that I have a rebuilt engine in and a basically new transmission. I have replace the catalytic converter and am on the 3rd distributer cap. It turns over and over but acts like
1. its not getting gas
2. there is water in the lines
3. there is air in the lines

It only does it when it is very moist or raining outside. If I do get it started it lunges/skips and I can't go over 30-40 mph. If I drive it for a while it eventually will work itself out but I'm scared to drive it that long. I've only done that once because I had to to get home. Please give me any and all advice! I'm running out of options!